Here is another tunic dress from The Tunic Bible by Sarah Gunn and Julie Starr. I loved my first dress I made from this pattern so I had to make another. I originally intended to make this dress with a neckline totally different than my first dress, but in the end I decided to go with the wide-split placket and angled collar again because I thought it would show off the trim best. I made the dress in an XS. The directions state to size-down if using a knit, but XS is the smallest in the size range so I just took in as I needed to get the fit right.
The fabric is the Leggero ponte by Telio. It is a rayon blend light-to-medium ponte with great recovery. I purchased it from Fabric.com last year, but they are currently sold out. I found the silver sari lace trim on Etsy. If you are looking for something similar, try searching for “sari trim” or “sari lace”. There are literally thousands of beautiful embroidered and crocheted trims in this category and most are very affordable. I did notice that the trim shrank significantly when exposed to steam. I’m not sure if most crocheted metallic trims do this, but it is something to keep in mind. Unfortunately, I noticed this after I had applied the trim to the collar and before I sewed the collar on. So the collar didn’t fit right in the neckline due to the shrinkage. It also created some drag lines from the high shoulder point to the armpit, but I still love the dress.
I used the same crochet trim at the neckline and hem of the dress, but I removed the scalloped side of the trim to get a different look at the bottom of the dress. You can see me unravel the trim on my instagram post here. I love that I get a cohesive look without buying two different trims!
To get the perfect placement of the trim at the bottom of the dress, I marked 3/8″ away from the edge of the fabric at the hem using chalk and hand basted the trim to the dress. I then pressed the trim to get perfectly crisp mitered corners before I sewed the trim down on either side using a straight stitch on my machine.
I have plans to make another dress from this pattern in linen, hopefully I can get that done by the end of the summer.
I love Barbour-style jackets, but who wants to pay over $300 for a coat that can only be “sponged clean”? I. Just. Can’t.
I found this unique, water resistant fabric at Pacific Blue Denims. It is made in the UK at the Dinsmore fabric mill, and is listed as a wax/acrylic coated cotton canvas It is 7 oz and 100% cotton. This fabric is so different from anything I have ever sewn with. It feels dry to the touch, unlike some waxed fabrics that feel slightly sticky, especially when warm. The finish does not rub off when ironed and didn’t leave a residue on my sewing machine either. It has a matte finish, but a beautiful slight sheen (similar to traditional waxed canvas) develops after some use. This wound be a great choice for a dressier raincoat because it doesn’t necessarily look like it would shed water, but it does so wonderfully while also being breathable. Also, the fabric wont have to be re-waxed later. However, there are some drawbacks. The wax/acrylic canvas also has a very stiff drape that makes gathering and easing tremendously difficult. While I was setting in the sleeves, I kept thinking the fabric behaved more like brown craft paper rather than canvas. Oh, and perhaps the biggest challenge working with this fabric is that needle marks are hard to remove. Much like working with leather, all topstitching much be perfect on the first try. No do-overs!
Drawbacks aside, I think this is a wonderfully made, hard-wearing fabric if you are looking for a new kind of challenging material to sew with.
I used a brown faux suede at the front yoke that I quilted to the coated canvas with some matching machine quilting thread. I used this same brown thread for all the topstitching elsewhere on the jacket. The interlining fame from Five Eighth Seams, a local fabric store in Charleston. The zipper is an M6 Riri zipper from pacific trimming that I had to dye darker with synthetic dye. Snaps and other hardware were from the Closet Case Patterns Kelly Hardware kit.
I used the Kelly Anorak Pattern by Closet Case Patterns (size 4). Modifications are as follows: Lowered the drawstring by 3/4″, moved the drawstring to the inside, changed pockets to have a flap closure, added an interlining, quilted the front yolk pieces, lengthened the sleeves by 1/4″, and made a broad shoulder adjustment. I am thinking about making a detachable, snap-on hood by modifying the Kelly Anorak hood pattern pieces. I don’t use hoods on jackets, but it would be good to have on a rainy day.
What do you think? Would you ever sew with traditional waxed canvas or wax/acrylic coated canvas?